Eleuthera Escapades: Day 2

More about Pineapple Fields for those interested. The hotel was recommended to me by a yachtie I once met in Exuma. It also seemed to be the safest bet and centrally located on the island. When I say “safest bet”, I don’t mean in the security sense, rather, I mean more from a location perspective and where I know we can get advice or recommendations if we need it from hotel staff. The fact that it has a restaurant (Tippy’s) was also a plus.   The resort is right across the street from the beach on the Atlantic side and comprises several buildings, each with 4 units – 2 upstairs, 2 downstairs. It was well appointed and met all of our needs. Nothing really to report and I’m sure this is probably not earth shattering information you’re just dying to hear.

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Pineapple Fields – Our unit was on the bottom.

Today we made our way back to where we started, in North Eleuthera. This time we could take our time and bar crawl our way, up to the top and back. Several stops along the way were on our checklist. Others weren’t and those are sometimes even more exciting than the planned events. We weaved our way around Governor’s Harbour and into a quaint neighborhood boasting those adorable Victorian style homes so I could take some pictures from the car. Heaven forbid should I park and get out to get good photos. That’s too much work.

Our first stop was at The Cliffs. It was an unplanned stop but a sign and arrow directed us down a dirt road that I just HAD to take. Signs in the Out Islands are rare. It makes for an adventurous vacation without fail. Sometimes frustrating, it can also be a blast trying to find all the attractions. So, because I can’t pass up a marked attraction, I had to check out the view. It was still early, so I knew the water wouldn’t be glowing with the sun at such a low angle. In the islands, you can’t truly see the vibrant colors of the water until around noon-ish. The walk to The Cliffs is a short but slow, sharp and rugged limestone hop-scotch of sorts. But it was exactly what was advertised on the sign. Cliffs! No surprise there. The Cliffs were cliffs! Mind blown. The views were beautiful, the water a deep dark blue, and worth the easy 5-10 minute tip-toe from dagger to dagger. Hint: Water shoes are a far better option than flip flops. And even better when you have them right in the backseat. Ahem. You’d think we’d learn our lesson. Meh.

Next stop, Surfers Beach! Pictures of Surfers Beach aren’t necessarily impressive as it’s not the prettiest water on the island, but there is a break there than even the most avid surfer would enjoy. I thought we should check out the scene. After what seemed like an hour of driving down rocky roads overgrown with mangroves and bushes on either side, we finally made it. May I repeat, signs are just not something the islands are concerned about. You really have to do your research and know what you want to see and where it is located if you want to get the most out of this type of adventure. Trip Advisor is a great resource for that. Again, we were the only ones at the beach. No surfers. No Lenny Kravitz. Crickets. There is a small decrepit shack on the beach that is literally tilted over so that you have to bend over to walk under it. It looks like it used to be a really need spot but with the storms of late, it must have succumbed to the elements. Still, it was REALLY cool to look at. Locals, and perhaps tourists, have been decorating it with art over the years. It makes for an amazing photo opportunity for the artsy fartsy.

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This was the easiest section of the road.  The others were so rocky, I couldn’t stop to take a pic.

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Just up the road from The Cliffs was Queens Baths. I was so eager to make this stop as it was one of the activities I was most looking forward to during my planning process. Again, we ignored the fact that we had water shoes in the car and hop-scotched our way across and down the sharp limestone cliff. I had no clue where I was going or where these “baths” were because guess what? No friggin signs!!! Of course not. It’s just a damn free for all. Survival of the fittest I suppose. These islands turn everyone into Christopher Columbus, I swear. That is, if Christopher Columbus had a cell phone. Note: This trip would have been incredibly frustrating if I hadn’t had access to satellite maps on my cell phone. I HIGHLY recommend an international plan that allows full use of maps.

So I take my best guess based on the topography of the land and tip-toe off to the left, limestone dagger by limestone dagger. Eventually the cliff changes from daggers to smooth layers of rock, likely millions of years old. It’s quite impressive. Just over the edge, the rock pools appear. Now we just had to navigate our way down to them without dying. It’s not steep by any means. Just sharp. The closer I got to the pools the more in awe of mother nature I became. The ocean was pounding and splashing angrily against the lowest level of rock, filling the natural pool closest to the edge. But just inside that pool was another narrow but deep pool with crystal clear green/blue water. Amazing!!! Other surrounding pools were “dippable” but not big enough to swim in. The pictures are pretty darn accurate and have no filter. As I got closer, I could see little fish swimming around in them and black sea urchins galore in every crevasse. Nothing to worry about unless you sit on one. The hardest part about getting into the pool is there is nowhere to comfortably sit. The edges of the pool are only slightly less sharp than the aforementioned limestone daggers. Let’s just call them limestone BUTTer knives. (Credit to the maternal unit for suggesting I emphasize BUTT in butter.) Ha! Nice one mom.

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Anyhoo, this spot was unbelievable. If I had put my water shoes on, had more time, and wasn’t too excited to keep exploring, I could have spent a few hours here hopping from pool to pool. Two ladies approached just before we left so it was good timing. It’s kind of strange to enjoy this spot with other tourons. It’d be like sitting in a hot tub with people you don’t know. That’s just weird. The tide also seemed to be rising as the Atlantic was crashing closer to the pool we were in so it was time to make our exit. Dagger by dagger, we made it back. This spot already made the trip worth it and I highly recommend it. Onward!

Just a few short minute drive and we were already at the Glass Window Bridge, perhaps the most well known attraction (attraction is not the right word, this is no Disney) in all of Eleuthera. It is the narrowest point on the island where the Atlantic meets the Exuma Sound (often referred to as the Caribbean). Technically, the Caribbean is much further south but whatever. Everyone calls it the Caribbean anyway. A one-lane bridge crosses this point. The calm Caribbean side is a stunning turquoise, the Atlantic side an angry deep dark blue, the two meeting just under the bridge. Finding a place to pull over is fun. Let me know how that goes. Ha! We recall seeing a bar on the north side of the bridge so we head that way for our first adult beverage. Glass Window Bar and Grill was a gorgeous spot. Not surprising, we were the only ones there, grabbed a Pink Sands Radler and enjoyed the most incredible views. This is another place I could spend a very long time enjoying. Note: The first two pictures are taken from the internet with credit in the caption so you can see what it looks like from above.

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Next stop, Harbour Island. This was going to be an experiment. I didn’t plan to add this to the list as I received mixed reviews from friends and Trip Advisor. But we decided to check it out anyway and had to figure out how to get to the ferry to sail us over. Thank goodness again for the satellite map on my phone. We arrived at the ferry dock, looking lost I’m sure, and were approached by a 10-ish year old boy. He asked if we were trying to get to Harbour Island. Obviously we said yes and he showed us the boat we’d be on. But since it was just the two of us, they suggested waiting at the bar across the street until more people showed up. You don’t have tell us twice! Bar? Yes please!….

2 thoughts on “Eleuthera Escapades: Day 2

  1. Robert N. Lundy says:

    Great Travelogue so far. agree having google maps sat view is invaluable. on exuma google maps will actual route you to places (its how we found topic of cancer beach). but on long island we just picked an interesting spot/beach on the coast and followed the map down the bumpy limestone roads.

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